(Courtesy of JunebugWeddings.com)

The New York Times has an article today that makes our skin crawl: Bedbugs have made their home in clothes sold at a number of vintage shops and flea markets throughout New York. And shoppers are unwittingly bringing home more than they bargained for.

The article hits the point that the problem may not be contained to the five boroughs. How to protect yourself? Bridgett Artise, a Fashion Institute of Technology instructor who taught a spring course named “Is Vintage For You?”, has some good advice:

“I only worry about newbies, new vintage shoppers,” Ms. Artise said. “People like myself already know the telltale signs, and what to do. The first thing I always tell people who buy vintage clothing is if they see any type of anything that looks like it might have remnants of bedbugs, put it in a plastic bag and freeze it. You keep it in there, I would say, for at least three days. It can’t survive freezing. And after it thaws out, I would take it to a dry cleaner.”

An ounce of prevention, vintage-philes.

(M.J. Prest/EthicalStyle.com)

Earlier this summer, I became a thrifting convert. I was aware of the budgetary and environmental benefits of snapping up gently used clothing, but I always viewed the thrift-store scene as too much work for too little payoff.

That was before I figured out how to play the game. And so was born the “Goodwill Hunting” guide to successful thrifting.

The best part? Today I realized every last thing I was wearing (aside from undergarments and shoes) was thrifted. These items have become just that integrated into my closet. The striped sailor tee set me back only $3. My $5 vintage cross-body purse is genuine, thick Italian leather in the richest buttered rum color. The Salt Works bootcut jeans? Originally retailing for $175, I paid a mere $6.

All that means I managed to put together a reasonably presentable and totally recycled outfit for $14. And that’s not counting the $10 Seven for All Mankind black jeans, the $4 Michael Stars long-sleeve tee, the $4 cashmere-blend cable cardigan, and the many $3 real leather belts I’ve also adopted into my wardrobe over the past month.

My secret is threefold: patience, pickiness, and perseverance. I flip through every item on the rack, and I never go into the store unless I have at least half an hour to browse. For every 20 things I pick up, I try on maybe one and from those, I like maybe one out of every three items I bring into the dressing room.

And ultimately, with finds this cheap, I almost never have to choose between one item and another. If I like it, I will buy it without putting a serious crimp in my shopping budget. Because the one thing I can’t afford when it comes to blink-and-it’s-gone clothing is non-buyer’s remorse.

(Courtesy of CovetShop.com)

Perhaps some serious fashion lovers just cleaned out their closets, or maybe collectors are trading in their prized possessions for cash. No matter what the reason, our favorite used clothing and consignment boutiques on the web are stocked right now. Want to see our choicest picks and the best deals? Click on.

• We’re hopelessly in love with CovetShop’s peacock-themed silk sweater tunic by Temperley of London ($237). It’s brand new with tags and priced at almost 80 percent off (the tag says it retailed for $1,035). If you’re a size 8, snatch this one up!
• Still looking for the perfect military jacket? How ’bout this green twill oversize topper by Isabel Marant ($400), for sale at Decades Two?
• At FashionPhile.com, there are a number of authentic vintage Hermès silk scarves up for sale right now. We particularly the L’Armée Imperiale Russe pattern ($195), and it’s almost half the price of a new neckwarmer from the storied French fashion house.
• ConsignmentChic.com has a pair of sexy black silk Bruno Magli peeptoe pumps ($74.98) in seemingly perfect condition. If I were a size 8, you better believe these would be in my closet.
• And the pièce de resistance: Portero has a jaw-dropping Louis Vuitton “Alma” satchel in black Epi leather ($675). This bag retails for over $1,300 and it’s listed in very good condition, with only mild wear on the corners.

Sacramento stylist Kari Shipman of Juniper James poses in some of her thrift-shop finds. (Courtesy of JuniperJames.WordPress.com)

Look, we love a great deal. But that doesn’t mean we want to compromise our fashion ethics. Is it possible to balance both?

The short answer is yes. Bottom line is: You don’t have to get a second mortgage to support eco-fashion endeavors, and green looks great on you.

But cheap eco-fashion is equal parts great find and big scam. In this issue, we look at both sides of the coin.

• First off: How to do cheap and eco-chic right? This article will get you started.
• Kara, our DIY Doyenne, throws herself into a project of remaking old belts without spending a lot of money or time. It’s the kind of DIY you can do on your way out the door for dinner and a movie. Follow along with her tips here.
• Sometimes it doesn’t pay to be cheap: Plastic shoes and polyester clothing are some of the worst environmental and social offenders. How bad are they? Take a look.
• Fall is a popular time for makeovers, perhaps because the heat finally abates and your makeup will finally stay in place. There are a whole host of great green options for 2010, and we put together this list of our favorite potions and lotions for under $25 a pop.
• Finally, in Seam Ripper there’s always something new to be found by revisiting our top posts on cheap fashion from this very blog. And as always, it’s free to join the discussion in our comments section!

C’mon — we may be ethical shoppers, but we’re still consumers. And most of us love a deal.

Sacramento stylist Kari Shipman of Juniper James poses in some of her thrift-shop finds. (Courtesy of JuniperJames.WordPress.com)

Lucky for us, ethical fashion has been largely a grass-roots movement, and many chic designers sport grass-roots prices. Online boutique Tobi’s eco-section is chock full of great dresses, jewelry, and accessories at great prices and even better sales. Etsy is a veritable wonderland of handmade and vintage goods with bargain-basement price tags. And your local thrift store is an easy and unique way to recycle your clothes and buy “pre-loved” clothes for next to nothing.

The bottom line is that you don’t have to get a second mortgage to support eco-fashion endeavors, and green looks great on you.

Of course, cheap eco-fashion is equal parts great find and big scam. In this issue, we look at both sides of the coin.

Kara, our DIY Doyenne, throws herself into a project of remaking old belts without spending a lot of money or time. It’s the kind of DIY you can do on your way out the door for dinner and a movie. Follow along with her tips here.

Sometimes it doesn’t pay to be cheap: Plastic shoes and polyester clothing are some of the worst environmental and social offenders. How bad are they? Take a look.

Fall is a popular time for makeovers, perhaps because the heat finally abates and your makeup will finally stay in place. There are a whole host of great green options for 2010, and we put together this list of our favorite potions and lotions for under $25 a pop.

Finally, in Seam Ripper there’s always something new to be found by revisiting our top posts on cheap fashion from the Behind the Seams blog. And as always, it’s free to join the discussion in our comments section!

Swiss luxury jeweler Cartier has filed suit against members-only shopping website HauteLook.com for allegedly selling counterfeit, damaged, and secondhand jewelry bearing the Cartier name.

Cartier reportedly bought five watches from Hautelook to check them for quality, and the inspection resulted in the lawsuit. In it, Cartier says Hautelook never “partnered with Cartier and is not an authorized dealer of Cartier’s merchandise.”

According to Reuters:

HauteLook is “causing immediate and irreparable harm to the Cartier brand and trademark,” Cartier said in its 36-page complaint filed on Tuesday evening in Manhattan federal court.

Cartier claimed that HauteLook has sold used Cartier watches despite maintaining on its website that it “never” sells “secondhand merchandise, ever.”

It also said HauteLook has also sold Cartier goods that were damaged, were shipped in the wrong packaging, or carried defaced authenticity certificates, and sometimes included a Cartier warranty booklet though the warranty did not apply.

Cartier is rumored to be asking for more than $2-million in compensatory damages. At best, this is an “oops” of major proportions; at worst, it’s fraud.

Recycled textiles are gaining on organics as the most popular material used by eco-designers, and for good reason. There is so much gorgeous fabric already existing in the world, whether forgotten in warehouses or stashed at the backs of closets.

In E.S. Issue 40, we tackle recycled fashion as the creative wave of the future.

• Recycled fashion gets designers’ creative juices flowing with startlingly original effects. We pay homage to the technological developments of making the best of what we’ve got.
• Kara Cook, our DIY Doyenne, has inherited a cherished leather laptop bag from our publisher, Trevor Martin. You should have seen her face light up: She was practically drunk with inspiration of how to put the supple, broken-in leather to good use. In fact, she had so many ideas, we’ve broken up the DIY projects into three parts. Volume 1 of The Leather Diaries appears here, and stay tuned for the next installment in the series, coming soon.
• As an element, gold is one of the easiest precious metals to recycle, and boy have jewelry designers picked up on that fact. Check out this slideshow of five amazing metalworkers and their glittering creations.
• Have a closet full of clothes that are almost right, but not quite? Or an eye for vintage, but no DIY hemming skills? Fear not. Our guide to tailoring will show you how much you can expect to pay to alter your beloved dresses, shirts, jackets, and pants.
• Finally, in the spirit of recycled content (it’s nice how that works out thematically), we bring to you Seam Ripper, our collection of five stories reprinted from the Behind the Seams blog. We hope to see you in the comments soon!

While of the three R’s, “reduce” is the one with the biggest measurable environmental impact — since if you don’t buy something you don’t need in the first place, you cut down on waste at the source — recycling is arguably the most fun. It’s where creativity comes into play. How else do you think we have developed the technology to turn plastic bottles into polar fleece, or soybean byproducts into sweaters?

A model walks during Sanlam South Africa Fashion Week, modeling recycled fashion from Clive Rundle's Spring/Summer 2009 collection. (Courtesy of Treevolution.co.za)

Recycled textiles are gaining on organics as the most popular material used by eco-designers, and for good reason. There is so much gorgeous fabric already existing in the world, whether forgotten in warehouses or stashed at the backs of closets. Trying to recreate silk shantung with a vegan alternatives just seems like a huge waste of everyone’s time. Rather than trying to reinvent the spinning wheel, why not just work with what we already have?

And it’s not just scientists and designers who are jumping on the recycling bandwagon, either. There are a million ways innovative fashionistas can tackle at-home recycling projects. And in this issue, we get our hands dirty with some of those projects.

Kara Cook, our DIY Doyenne, has inherited a cherished leather laptop bag from our publisher, Trevor Martin. You should have seen her face light up: She was practically drunk with inspiration of how to put the supple, broken-in leather to good use. In fact, she had so many ideas, we’ve broken up the DIY projects into three parts. Volume 1 of The Leather Diaries appears here, and stay tuned for the next installment in the series, coming soon.

As an element, gold is one of the easiest precious metals to recycle, and boy have jewelry designers picked up on that fact. Check out this slideshow of five amazing metalworkers and their glittering creations.

Have a closet full of clothes that are almost right, but not quite? Or an eye for vintage, but no DIY hemming skills? Fear not. Our guide to tailoring will show you how much you can expect to pay to alter your beloved dresses, shirts, jackets, and pants.

Finally, in the spirit of recycled content (it’s nice how that works out thematically), we bring to you Seam Ripper, our collection of five stories reprinted from the Behind the Seams blog. We hope to see you in the comments soon!

We’re willing to bet most people would like to get their clothes tailored for a custom fit, but it can be a guessing game regarding how much it will cost to turn that vintage dress into something you would actually wear. And without knowing what hemming or taking in an item will cost, would-be thrift shoppers are at a bit of a disadvantage.

No more.

While where you live and where you go will have some variation on how much you can expect to pay, this guide aims to walk you through common tailoring requests and what factors may increase your final tailoring bill.

Hemming Pants

There’s nothing sloppier than too-long pants that drag — it ruins both the pants and the look. Equally bad: Pants that are fine when you wear flats but weirdly short when you’re in heels. If you frequently switch between skimmers and stilettos, keep a couple of pants on hand that are hemmed for flats, and the rest of your pants should be kept long for heels.

The average: $10

What may cost more: Lined dress pants, cuffs, or special requests like an original hem for designer denim, for which you can expect to pay up to $25.

Shortening Skirts and Dresses

Whether you’re an attendant to a bride who has requested tea-length dresses or you are looking to rock the leggy look, shortening your hemline is a surefire way to change the entire look of a dress.

The average: $20

What may cost more: Lined dresses, satin, silk, and layered frocks require more work and a higher cost, likely starting in the $35 range.

Lifting a Neckline

If you’ve found a frock that would be even more perfect with a sweetheart neckline, or it’s just a little too loose in the bust, these are easy fixes that will elevate a great dress.

The average: $10 for strap and dart adjustment

What may cost more: Formal dresses may need to be relined for extensive bodice work, so expect to add the cost of material to the labor.

Taking A Dress or Shirt In

Lost weight? You can easily tailor most items in your wardrobe to fit your new physique, with the help of a talented seamstress. (Just weigh the value of your wardrobe before you decide to alter — it may be cheaper to simply replace the item.)

The average: starting around $15 for shirts, $20 for dresses

What may cost more: Wedding dresses, with their complicated beading, boning, and high-grade silk, will be much more to take in. It’s not uncommon for alterations to start around $250 and add to up $500 or more, so keep that in mind while wedding-gown shopping. Also, letting seams out is a considerably trickier job, so budget accordingly.

Shortening Jacket Sleeves

If you’re petite, you probably know the agony of trying to find a suit that doesn’t make you look like you’re wearing your dad’s blazer. Luckily it’s simple and cost-effective enough to shorten the sleeves.

The average: $25

What may cost more: Leather is much harder to sew, and will accordingly cost more — $35 and up is not uncommon.

Tailoring Wool or Leather

A fantastic wool or leather coat is where most people spend their money; it’s an investment piece that will last for years. But if it’s no longer fitting you quite right or looking the worse for wear, it may be worth altering — just be prepared for the high cost.

The average: starting around $30 to taper a back seam, $50 to let side seams in or out, $35 for a zipper replacement, $45 for hemming, and $75 to reline the whole coat

What may cost more: Thicker materials (like motorcycle leather) require a more labor-intensive job, and not every tailor is skilled at it. Talk to a leather specialist if you want to make sure you’re getting top-notch work.

High School Musical star Vanessa Hudgens looks totally adorable in boyfriend Zac Efron’s plaid shirt, and with a few easy DIY tips courtesy of the Prom Mafia, you too could be rocking the feminized version of the classic men’s button-down.

All you’ll need is an old shirt from your dad, brother, boyfriend, or BFF, some simple tailoring to emphasize the waist, and easy alterations to the sleeves. (Follow along with the visual aids here.)

Wear it as a minidress with espadrilles like Vanessa, or with leggings or jeans if you’re less daring about bare legs. The men’s detailing means you have license to go hog wild with jewelry and accessories, so have at it!