A few days after the brouhaha broke out, Mr. Routzen took to his blog to defend himself from the photoshop-happy criticism. He writes:

Below are 6 untouched images of Crystal moving around, shifting hips, working chin angles, etc.

It’s important to note that, if you watch her thigh, closest to the left side of the screen, as it shifts from a vertical position to a downward – there is a drastic change in body size. This is one of the most basic lessons, when studying either photography or film: lower angles give you a wider subject and the closest thing to the lens will look the largest. As I said in a previous interview, this series that I shot with Crystal was done from a higher angle and with a wider lens. …

I want to reiterate that I feel Crystal looks amazing in both images and the minimal retouching that I did do — it’s nothing you wouldn’t see in any magazine today. There is nothing hidden about this.

In our opinion, he lets himself off the hook a bit with the last part, about airbrushing being standard in magazines.

But what do you think, E.S. readers? Is Mr. Routzen’s evidence compelling to you?

Can’t photo editors leave Crystal Renn alone?

As you can see in this unedited photo, there is nothing wrong with the model-of-the-moment’s body. Ms. Renn is now a size 10 but in her own words, she’s far healthier than she was in her anorexic days. And she’s getting more work than she knows what to do with.

Big-name labels aren’t hiring her despite her curves, but because of them. So why would photographer Nicholas Routzen make the editorial decision to digitally shave several dress sizes off her frame for the Passion for Fashion charity campaign?

Ms. Renn herself has no idea, as she tells Glamour of her reaction to seeing the finished product:

I was shocked. When I saw the pictures, I think I was silent for a good five minutes, staring with my mouth open. I don’t know what was done to those photos or who did it, but they look retouched to me. And listen, everybody retouches, but don’t make me into something I’m not. …

But in the new pictures…well, that body doesn’t look like my body. It doesn’t. Having had an eating disorder, I know what that very thin body looks like on me, and it’s not something I find attractive. It’s not something I aspire to.

I feel completely confident in my own health because I know I don’t look like that, but even to see it in an image was really disturbing to me.

(Photo comparison courtesy of The Cut)

We love Christina Hendricks for so many reasons, but now we have a new one: She has enough body confidence that she doesn’t let the fashion critics get her down with insensitive, body-shaming comments.

The 35-year-old star of Mad Men tells the July/August issue of Health magazine:

“I made the grave mistake after one awards show of reading comments online about what I wore, and I was like, ‘Oh my God, people are so mean!’” Hendricks reveals. “I still remember all those negative comments, despite all the wonderful positivity. That’s why we’re all in therapy!”

Because of the criticism, the newlywed admits she’s surprised to learn she’s often cited as one of the most desirable bodies in Hollywood.

“Really? They dont say Jessica Alba? ‘Cause that’s what I say!” she laughs. “It’s such a compliment, because of all those times I had agents who were like, “You have to lose some weight,” and all of a sudden, people are celebrating it.”

We understand why she doesn’t read blog comments about her looks anymore, but we hope she wouldn’t mind ours. We are big fans of any intelligent, confident actress who is willing to stand up and say she’s healthy and proud of her body, damn the torpedoes.

Even worse, the top brass at Condé Nast knew about the allegations; CEO Charles Townsend reportedly said in March he was “appalled” at the evidence against Richardson, yet he was hired for the June issue anyway.

What’s the deal, Vogue? Is this another example of Roman Polanski-style blanket forgiveness because the man accused is an artist? Because quite honestly, Doutzen Kroes is more of a draw than Richardson at this point. Deciding to put a supermodel of her popularity in what they knew to be a potentially dangerous situation could come back to haunt the editorial board, and what’s the justification for that?

(via Jezebel)

We squealed with delight when we saw how lovely model Liya Kebede looks in the June issue of Vogue – not just because everything in her ensemble is eco.

She is seen here wearing a dress of her own design that was crafted by a fair-trade cooperative in her native Ethiopia, and flats by E.S. fan favorite Olsen Haus. Of trying her hand at design and her seamstresses in Addis Ababa, she says:

“We’re employing them so they can be self-sufficient, so they can send their children to school or rise from poverty,” says Kebede, whose namesake foundation promotes maternal health in developing countries, especially in Africa. “It’s always better to teach people to sustain themselves.”

Keep the conscious fashion coming, Vogue!

Along the way, she dedicated herself to raising money for the Akanksha Foundation, which benefits children in India’s slums.

With the long-awaited completion of the project this month, she has a lot to offer on styling and trends:

There is so much of fashion that is prescribed by magazine trends and looks that are seasonal. I think that’s the biggest problem with fashion. And some people really are stressed about getting ready.

The starting point needs to be identifying who you are and what do you like. Some people are hat people, others are belt people and skirt people. You have to try things out and see what you like yourself in.

Think you have the commitment and creativity to follow in Ms. Matheiken’s eco-footsteps? Pledge to join the 91-day Summer Light Challenge, sponsored by Green by Design.

“The question of whether or not fashion magazines should do more to represent a wider array of models, in body shape, in race, in age, is derailed by this notion of the “average” woman (or her sister the “real” woman) and their supposed right to warts-and-all representation, as though any magazine that failed to be average enough were failing its readers. Obviously all women’s magazines should be booking more plus-sized models, and more models of color, and more models who aren’t 14 years old and looking like they’re playing in grown-up clothes. They don’t have to be average, though.”

– Jezebel.com writer Jenna on the problem with Glamour magazine’s “Curvy? Skinny? It’s All Good” issue.

As a sidenote, the three models featured on the cover are the same three in this summer’s Victoria’s Secret ads.

Jezebel.com got its mitts on a 1986 copy of Elle magazine and posted this fascinating review of how fashion spreads and advertisements have changed (or not) over the past 24 years.

What stood out to us the most was the comparison of a 1986 Louis Vuitton ad that emphasized quality and its long tradition of fine craftsmanship, with a modern wordless two-page spread that sells fantasy in addition to a designer bag.

Is it fair to admit we prefer the 1986 approach? The era of the It Bag has passed; nowadays if consumers are going to spend big bucks on a fantastic purse, they ought to be given a reason why it’s worth it. And given the made-in-China charges of contemporary fashion critics, it wouldn’t be a bad idea for the venerable brand to go back to its artisanal roots.

We dedicate this issue to all the colors of the ethical style rainbow, and expand our color theme to cover a variety of interpretations –from race to cosmetics.

• You don’t have to be a dyed-in-the-hemp fanatic to count yourself as an ethical fashionista. What shade of green are you?
• Kara interviews Eka A. for our newest Real Girl Ethics column. As a law student, beauty-pageant competitor, singer, actress, she’s the real deal and a quadruple threat.
• Madison checks out the new eco-beauty products for spring, with an emphasis on the vibrant colors seen all over the runway for Spring 2010. This season, it’s cool to leave your brights on.
• Take a walk through magazine history in this slideshow of famous and groundbreaking fashion-mag covers featuring amazing women of color. Can you name the first black model to appear on the cover of Vogue? If not, this is a must-read.
• Finally, you can use Seam Ripper to catch up on everything you might have missed on the Behind the Seams blog.

We lead you on a walk through history to peek at some of the most important magazine covers featuring women of all ethnicities.

Click on any image below to launch the slideshow.