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March 4, 2010

NYT: Balmain Does Fast Fashion?

This excerpt of the New York Times’s review of Balmain’s fashion show in Paris today caught our attention for its insinuation that even the highest of high fashion can still be disposable:

Yet, even without any fashion innovation, Balmain has still caught a vibe. A taut pantsuit, with its short jacket resting on the derrière, the designer’s signature short party dresses with sharp shoulders and, above all, the gilt trip will feed the greedy maw of fast fashion — and give a lot of young women just what they want for right now.

Usually “fast fashion” is taken to mean cheaply-made clothes from H&M, Forever 21, and the like — the fashion equivalent of a Big Mac, not a Kobe beef burger. But if a design is so trendy, so recognizably “this moment,” couldn’t that be equally short-lived in the closets of people with the deepest pockets? Discuss in the comments!

1 Comment | Filed under: On your mind | Tags: , , , , | M.J. Prest @ 5:51 pm

February 22, 2010

Steve Madden, Knockoff King, on Shoe Creativity

We couldn’t help but giggle a little at this quote from Steve Madden, the shoe knockoff king:

“We design shoes every day, and we are as creative as Prada. We are creating as much as the Pradas and the Chloés of the world. Do we make $900 shoes that are in Neiman Marcus? Have we made shoes just like that, which are less than $100 and have been great? Yes, we have. We’re out there creating and designing every day, making and building a meal for our customers. That creativity is not appreciated, and I would argue that what we do is harder. I could design an $800 shoe line; it’s easy. You use the best materials and you can make beautiful shoes. It’s easier than making great shoes for $90.”

But as The Cut rightly points out, Steve Madden’s company has on more than one occasion been the defendant in intellectual-property lawsuits from those top designers for ripping off their designs. He’s made an industry of copying high-end shoes for pennies on the dollar, and even if you respect his desire to bring big style to the little people, how creative do you have to be to manufacture replicas?

Above: In December, Balenciaga (the maker of the original Lego-inspired shoe on the right) sued Steve Madden over its uncanny knockoff, pictured on the left.

No Comments | Filed under: On the street | Tags: , , , | M.J. Prest @ 11:14 am

February 18, 2010

How to Spot Fake Hermès Scarves on eBay

If you’re a scarf aficionado, you know the Hermès silk scarf is the holy grail of neckwarmers. And if you don’t want to plunk down serious plastic for a new one, there are abundant vintage options available.

But since you don’t want to get burned on a counterfeit, ThePerfectRedBox.com offers a guide to spotting a fake on eBay or in the consignment shop. Among the tips:

Weight The weight of the counterfeits I’ve felt were quite different from an authentic Hermès.  All but one has been much lighter -  most were made of polyester and not silk.  A new 35” x 35” Hermès carrè should weigh in around 63 grams or 2.2. ounces.

When in doubt Weigh it.

Back of carrè Almost every counterfeit I’ve seen had very little detail on the back.  The design on an authentic Hermès carrè can be clearly seen from the back – it is colour saturated.

When in doubt Look closely at the back of the carrè.

Hem Almost all Hermès scarves have hand rolled and hand stitched hems, to the front. There are a few exceptions to this, but generally an authentic scarf will be hand rolled and hand stitched. Many of the counterfeits I’ve seen were very clearly and very pooly machine hemmed/finished.

When in doubt If it looks machine sewn, seek further authentication.

Useful, right? See the whole guide here.

February 9, 2010

Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes

Whether you’re dropping subtle hints of solitaires to your boyfriend or putting the finishing touches on your wedding regalia, every bride-to-be contemplates diamonds at some point. And for those who think green, ethical jewelry choices abound now — from wedding sets to the perfect complements to your wedding gown.

Read on for our top picks from our favorite eco-designers and resources.

Diamond in the Rough

For the girl who eschews the round brilliant, Melissa Joy Manning's diamond slices are a modern take on the diamond solitaire. (Courtesy of MelissaJoyManning.com)

For the girl who loves nature in all its rough-hewn glory, what better engagement ring for her than a diamond slice from Melissa Joy Manning? This 4.2 carat milky white giant ($7,940), bezel set in 18 karat recycled gold, could be the perfect fit. And better yet, 10 percent of all sales through March 2010 will be donated to the American Red Cross’s earthquake recovery efforts in Haiti.

Pearls of Wisdom

Wearing a strapless dress but feeling bare on top? This multistrand pearl necklace (£39) from Eco-Monkey is a youthful (and well-priced!) update on the classic and gives just enough coverage above your decolletage.

Something Old

Check off the “something old” and “something blue” from your list with this vintage diamond and sapphire bracelet ($3,495) from Ross Simons’s estate collection. It’s circa 1980, so it’s not exactly old old, but it is so pretty that you’ll want to justify any reason to buy it.

Modern Vintage

If you want to ensure your diamonds come with a clean background, BrilliantEarth.com’s Diamond Flower Stud Earrings ($1,500) are guaranteed conflict free from Canada. The total carat weight for these studs reaches two-thirds of a carat and are set in a delicate vintage-inspired floral pattern in 18 karat white gold. (Not to mention they don’t scream “wedding jewelry” — you can wear these for life.)

Eternity Is A Long Time

Why not spend it on something classic that will never go out of style? Choo Yilin Artisan Jewelry is a newcomer to the ethical jewelry set, but her timeless trinity eternity bands (price upon request) handcrafted from reclaimed metals should be a part of every bride’s wedding set.

No Comments | Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: , , , | M.J. Prest @ 4:42 pm

Seam Ripper

Love has inspired poets going as far back at the Torah — and even further, we’re sure. How has love been interpreted by ethical fashion enthusiasts? Read on for a sampling from the Behind the Seams blog.

No Comments | Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | M.J. Prest @ 12:20 pm

February 3, 2010

LVMH, Parsons to Celebrate Artisans During Fashion Week

French conglomerate LVMH and the venerated Parsons School of Design have teamed up to present an exhibition entitled “The Art of Craftsmanship Revisited” during New York Fashion Week this month.

The exhibit will showcase work by 23 teams of Parsons students who worked for several months on their designs with the help of dozens of NYC artisans. Says Bernard Arnault, LVMH’s chairman and chief executive officer:

Beyond ephemeral fashions, it is the values of quality and durability which are forever attached to the Group’s brands. The handicraft expertise of our products, their unique history and legacy, the truly iconic designs that distinguish our creations — all of these characteristics take on particular importance for us, as the leading luxury group, enforcing and perpetuating our solid values.

Want to see for yourself? The fashion projects will be on display on February 17 at Milk Studios (450 W. 15th Street, New York, N.Y.) during MAC & MILK Fashion Week.

No Comments | Filed under: On the street | Tags: , , , | M.J. Prest @ 4:59 pm

February 2, 2010

Eco-Over: Springtime Flat Sandals Edition

It may not look much like spring outside, but in all of our catalogs and email inboxes, the fashion is warming up fast. So for the February edition of E.S. Eco-Over — where we take a hot trend and find a stylish equivalent from an ethical source — we tackle the hot flat-sandals trend.

In its weekly “Lust-Have Low Down” email, Neiman Marcus spoiled us with its top contenders for spring; from top to bottom, they are by Sigerson Morrison, Valentino, Emilio Pucci, and Antik Batik. While undeniably gorgeous, these selections range in price from $215 to $695 and use conventionally tanned leather.

Enter Matt Bernson to the rescue. His flat sandals for spring have every bit of the style and quality construction that these high-end competitors offer, but with vegetable-dyed leather stitched together in his fair-trade factory in Brazil. (Not to mention the comfort level is unreal.) Top to bottom, the styles here are imaginatively named BarracudaNouer III, and The Wanderer.

And given that his sandals range in price from $125 to $174, the choice is a bit of a no-brainer, isn’t it?

No Comments | Filed under: In the shop | Tags: , , , , , | M.J. Prest @ 2:11 pm

January 22, 2010

Feel Good About Fine Jewelry by Choo Yilin

We love eco-conscious costume jewelry as much as the next gal but the pickings for baubles made with precious jewels and metals are slim indeed. There are a few notable exceptions — Melissa Joy Manning and BrilliantEarth.com among them — and now we can add Choo Yilin Artisan Jewellery to that list.

Ms. Yilin herself contacted us this week with information about her Singapore-based line:

Choo Yilin Artisan Jewellery has set out to demonstrate that luxury and fine jewellery can coexist. It first started work with the hill tribe artisans in northern Thailand. By working with them, the label helps sustain a centuries-old culture which would otherwise be in danger of dying out; the effects of modernity see many young tribesmen leave their villages for the cities to seek employment. The renewed demand for their hand-forged silver provides the tribesmen with a form of employment that allows them the choice to continue with their traditional way of life.

The label has since expanded its sustainability outreach to using eco-friendly, reclaimed precious metals, and sustainably sourced gemstones that include the avoidance of conflict-free diamonds. In addition, it helps support and raise awareness of traditionally marginalised groups like the hill tribe people and the environmental destruction caused by the use of certain types of material like coral.

Is it time to start sending Valentine’s Day hints to your beau? You can shop her beautiful and delicate creations at Cate.com.sg.

No Comments | Filed under: In the shop | Tags: , , , , | M.J. Prest @ 5:03 pm

January 20, 2010

Huge Rave for CovetShop.com

Being a woman of my word, I like to put my money where my mouth is (when I can afford it!) and personally shop some of the boutiques and brands we feature here on EthicalStyle.com. The beneficiary of my investigation this month was CovetShop.com, a newcomer to the online consignment scene that we profiled in November.

Consignment is awesome because you can get brand-name goods in great condition for a fraction of the price of new. Ethically, it’s a version of reduce-reuse-recycle, since you’re buying something that already exists instead of requiring new materials for the cardigan or shoes of your dreams.

Unlike thrift shopping, consignment boutiques generally limit themselves to a few choice brands, and because they specialize in certain brands or designers, each piece has been thoroughly evaluated for quality and authenticity by the boutique’s staff.

CovetShop.com specializes in upscale contemporary designers like Diane von Furstenberg, Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Milly, Balenciaga, and more — typically for hundreds of dollars off the original asking price.

My first foray into online consignment shopping brought us a shift dress by 3.1 Philip Lim for the megasteal price of $90 (it originally sold for $425). It’s in pristine condition, precisely as described, and it shipped across the country in less than five days (including a holiday!). Such a versatile dress — I envision it making many an appearance at brunch this spring.

Consider me a new convert to Covet.

No Comments | Filed under: In your closet | Tags: , , , | M.J. Prest @ 6:14 pm

December 7, 2009

E.S. Presents: How to Choose a Classic Handbag

audrey-hepburn-speedy

Lots of brands claim to sell classic handbags, but more often than not, these bags are trends masquerading as classics. After all, how often can a classic really be born?

We feel that the true classics are the ones that have been around for decades and have stood the test of time. So without further ado, we present some of the best “investment purchases” your handbag money can buy:

  • The Louis Vuitton Speedy in Monogram Canvas. With its iconic print and sturdy construction, the Speedy has been the LV of choice for the fashion elite since its debut in 1932. Audrey Hepburn carried one — now that’s a pedigree.
  • Chanel Quilted Flap. Also known as the 2.55 (after its original release in February 1955), the quilted flap bag was developed by Coco Chanel herself. The flap closure’s interior pocket, legend has it, was designed to hold Coco’s love letters.
  • Hermès Kelly Bag. Originally called the “Sac à Dépêches,” the Kelly was re-named after Princess Grace of Monoco famously used the oversize satchel to conceal her pregnancy in 1956.
  • Bonnie Cashin for Coach. Bonnie Cashin launched Coach’s women’s accessories line in 1962, laying the groundwork for the company’s ultimate success as a handbag brand. This spring, Coach released the Bonnie Cashin Collection in homage to the late designer, but authentic purses from her era remain among the most desirable of vintage Coach.
  • Bottega Veneta’s Intrecciato Bags. Italian designer brand Bottega Veneta has become synonymous with its woven leather bags, but interestingly enough the technique was born of necessity. According to Purseblog.com, BV’s signature bags were developed soon after the company’s inception in 1966, when its artisans discovered their sewing machines could not handle leather. So they began weaving the leather instead.

All of these bags have certain elements in common: a size large enough to carry the requirements but small enough that it won’t be mistaken for luggage; thoughtful placement of pockets and other design details that make carrying everything you need easy; solid construction that holds up with repeated usage; and a shape that doesn’t scream a particular decade. Follow these guidelines in your bag purchases and time will tell you that you have a classic on your hands.

1 Comment | Filed under: On the street | Tags: , , , | M.J. Prest @ 4:39 pm
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