In E.S. Issue 40, we tackle recycled fashion as the creative wave of the future.

• Recycled fashion gets designers’ creative juices flowing with startlingly original effects. We pay homage to the technological developments of making the best of what we’ve got.
• Kara Cook, our DIY Doyenne, has inherited a cherished leather laptop bag from our publisher, Trevor Martin. You should have seen her face light up: She was practically drunk with inspiration of how to put the supple, broken-in leather to good use. In fact, she had so many ideas, we’ve broken up the DIY projects into three parts. Volume 1 of The Leather Diaries appears here, and stay tuned for the next installment in the series, coming soon.
• As an element, gold is one of the easiest precious metals to recycle, and boy have jewelry designers picked up on that fact. Check out this slideshow of five amazing metalworkers and their glittering creations.
• Have a closet full of clothes that are almost right, but not quite? Or an eye for vintage, but no DIY hemming skills? Fear not. Our guide to tailoring will show you how much you can expect to pay to alter your beloved dresses, shirts, jackets, and pants.
• Finally, in the spirit of recycled content (it’s nice how that works out thematically), we bring to you Seam Ripper, our collection of five stories reprinted from the Behind the Seams blog. We hope to see you in the comments soon!

(Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

For me, the thought of refinishing leather was a highly romantic one. I could, on some level, connect with people who for thousands of years have tanned, dyed, painted, and polished leather.

It all started with two messenger bags, both bequeathed with a wave of the hand and a “I bet you can do something with it.” One was heavily — and I mean heavily — worn and torn, the other just needed to be polished.

In the way that when someone asks me where I got my dress, I can say I made it, there is a part of me that wants to be able to do that with leather goods as well. It’s a “Kate Spade, here I come” pipe dream that I need to keep in check.

So last Saturday, I took apart the heavily worn leather tote with scissors, full of childlike wonder.

A week into my work, I have to say that my respect for our collective human ancestors who made anything and everything out of leather has risen exponentially. Working with  leather is hard work. I write this “Volume 1″ mid-project, which means I am filled with fear that I will actually not be able to accomplish my goal of making something beautiful out the old leather bag I was given. But that only drives me harder to figure this out.

(Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

Preventative Medicine

The process of preparing leather yourself is a hard one, hence the price when you pay someone else to do it.

Since I don’t have any end product to show for my labor, the most important principle I can think of is this: Don’t let the leather get messed up in the first place. Keep your shoes polished and the leather items clean and moistured. Don’t let them dry out. Don’t let them get cracked. Take care of your accessories. If something gets scratched, fix it.

Your local drug store probably has the most amazing little repair kit ever. If polish gets rubbed off, don’t let it get worse. Polish it.

Take care of it, because trust me, bringing leather “back from the brink” is a labor-intensive process. I’m certainly not innocent in this regard; I have some beautiful leather shoes whose welfare I have long neglected. I can’t put leather care is perspective any better than the PlanetShoe.com post entitled “Take Care of Your Shoes the Green Way“:

“No matter which one you choose – remember that taking care of your leather shoes and boots can help them last a lifetime. Using your items until they actually wear out can be one of the best ways to be environmentally conscious – and you’ll find after a few years there will be nothing as comfortable as your well worn and well maintained leather boots or shoes.”

So here’s the easiest DIY you’ll ever do: Take the fate of your leather into your own hands, and polish it. I did this on the small bag that just needed a fresh coat, after I cleaned it. Kiwi products are ubiquitous, but for my project, I used Pedag International‘s Cream Polish in Bordeaux, which not only moisturizes the leather, but restores the color (my favorite color of leather), and makes it shiny. Buff it with a soft cloth when you are done for the best results.

Before and after stripping with acetone and lighter fluid. (Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

Emergency Care

Sometimes a leather item’s surface is too far gone to be fixed with a leather repair kit, or a fresh coat of polish, it’s too dirty or damaged or discolored or any number of things for an easy fix. The leather is still valuable, still worry of respect, but needs to be stripped. Yes, stripped of all the polish, oil, sealers, weatherproofers, dirt, stains, and spills that need to be removed to return the piece of leather to it’s natural state.

Leather strippers that are commonly available are acetone (Common finger nail polish remover) and lighter fluid that contains naphtha (I used Ronsonol, but Zippo brand should also work). Fiebing’s Deglazer is actually made for this purpose. After first washing the leather with Fiebing’s saddle soap, I stripped — or thought I had stripped — the leather bag enough with a quick pass of acetone, and started dying it without marking darn sure the leather was stripped.

Don’t do this, because then you get unevenly leather with strange patches and a whole lot of frustration. I used cotton balls at first, but quickly switched to a cotton towel, dipping the tip in a 1 part lighter fluid to 1 part water mixture and vigorously scrubbing the surface of the leather. Cutting up an old cotton t-shirt is also an option, but just make sure to “shift” around the part you are scrubbing with, using a fresh section of material every so often. In the picture, you can see my partially stripped, splotch-ily dyed leather peice on the left. After the lighter fluid is on the right. Notice a difference?

Disclaimer: Always be careful when googling “leather” and “stripping.” Seriously!

Sneak peak from the next issue:

(Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

]]> http://ethicalstyle.com/issue-40/the-leather-diaries-volume-1/feed/ 0 http://ethicalstyle.com/issue-40/the-leather-diaries-volume-1/a-guide-to-tailoring/ http://ethicalstyle.com/issue-40/the-leather-diaries-volume-1/a-guide-to-tailoring/#comments Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:37:31 +0000 M.J. Prest http://ethicalstyle.com/ We’re willing to bet most people would like to get their clothes tailored for a custom fit, but it can be a guessing game regarding how much it will cost to turn that vintage dress into something you would actually wear. And without knowing what hemming or taking in an item will cost, would-be thrift shoppers are at a bit of a disadvantage.

No more.

While where you live and where you go will have some variation on how much you can expect to pay, this guide aims to walk you through common tailoring requests and what factors may increase your final tailoring bill.

Hemming Pants

There’s nothing sloppier than too-long pants that drag — it ruins both the pants and the look. Equally bad: Pants that are fine when you wear flats but weirdly short when you’re in heels. If you frequently switch between skimmers and stilettos, keep a couple of pants on hand that are hemmed for flats, and the rest of your pants should be kept long for heels.

The average: $10

What may cost more: Lined dress pants, cuffs, or special requests like an original hem for designer denim, for which you can expect to pay up to $25.

Shortening Skirts and Dresses

Whether you’re an attendant to a bride who has requested tea-length dresses or you are looking to rock the leggy look, shortening your hemline is a surefire way to change the entire look of a dress.

The average: $20

What may cost more: Lined dresses, satin, silk, and layered frocks require more work and a higher cost, likely starting in the $35 range.

Lifting a Neckline

If you’ve found a frock that would be even more perfect with a sweetheart neckline, or it’s just a little too loose in the bust, these are easy fixes that will elevate a great dress.

The average: $10 for strap and dart adjustment

What may cost more: Formal dresses may need to be relined for extensive bodice work, so expect to add the cost of material to the labor.

Taking A Dress or Shirt In

Lost weight? You can easily tailor most items in your wardrobe to fit your new physique, with the help of a talented seamstress. (Just weigh the value of your wardrobe before you decide to alter — it may be cheaper to simply replace the item.)

The average: starting around $15 for shirts, $20 for dresses

What may cost more: Wedding dresses, with their complicated beading, boning, and high-grade silk, will be considerably more to take in. It’s not uncommon for alterations to start around $250 and add to up $500 or more, so keep that in mind while wedding-gown shopping. Also, letting seams out is a considerably trickier job, so budget accordingly.

Shortening Jacket Sleeves

If you’re petite, you probably know the agony of trying to find a suit that doesn’t make you look like you’re wearing your dad’s blazer. Luckily it’s simple and cost-effective enough to shorten the sleeves.

The average: $25

What may cost more: Leather is much harder to sew, and will accordingly cost more — $35 and up is not uncommon.

Tailoring Wool or Leather

A fantastic wool or leather coat is where most people spend their money; it’s an investment piece that will last for years. But if it’s no longer fitting you quite right or looking the worse for wear, it may be worth altering — just be prepared for the high cost.

The average: starting around $30 to taper a back seam, $50 to let side seams in or out, $35 for a zipper replacement, $45 for hemming, and $75 to reline the whole coat

What may cost more: Thicker materials (like motorcycle leather) require a more labor-intensive job, and not every tailor is skilled at it. Talk to a leather specialist if you want to make sure you’re getting top-notch work.

It’s easy enough to slack off getting your high-end denim properly hemmed — who wants to pay for tailoring on top of the sticker price? And then you have to recall which jeans are hemmed for flats and which ones are for heels.

But if you wear flats with too-long pants, you’ll get frayed, torn hems from them dragging on the ground. And not in an artful way. (We’re looking at you, Audrina Patridge!)

So we’re glad to have discovered Hem Gems, the lazy girl’s DIY hemming solution. You simply roll up the extra material inside the pant leg and use these removable rivets to pin it in place, preserving the original hem and adding a little extra flair to your style.

Our favorite? The pyramid stud option, in goldtone and silver ($20).

Trust us, it’s so much better-looking than cuffing.

(via Daily Candy)

High School Musical star Vanessa Hudgens looks totally adorable in boyfriend Zac Efron’s plaid shirt, and with a few easy DIY tips courtesy of the Prom Mafia, you too could be rocking the feminized version of the classic men’s button-down.

All you’ll need is an old shirt from your dad, brother, boyfriend, or BFF, some simple tailoring to emphasize the waist, and easy alterations to the sleeves. (Follow along with the visual aids here.)

Wear it as a minidress with espadrilles like Vanessa, or with leggings or jeans if you’re less daring about bare legs. The men’s detailing means you have license to go hog wild with jewelry and accessories, so have at it!

Thanks to the amount of ribbon and tulle that has run through my fingers in the last two weeks, my lesser self  is tempted to say that weddings are bastions of conspicuous consumption and excessive excess, and that the only thing earth friendly about weddings is the “something old” item. My better self will remember my friends finding true love and the celebratory aspect of weddings.

The navy belt ties the author helped fashion for her friend's bridesmaid dresses. (Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

As you can imagine, being the DIY Doyenne, I’ve been asked to do a myriad of wedding-related projects for these friends of mine. Also not so shocking, it’s all the things that would otherwise be very expensive or a undue hassle, that friends found out I could, to put it kindly, jury-rig.

Here are a couple of ideas and projects that that may help you get more with less, save money, and perhaps use resources more wisely.

Flowers

To help keep floral costs down, I am using a local wholesaler and getting a bargain on flowers for the entire wedding. They aren’t organic but I like to think I minimized transportation and storage energy costs by buying in bulk and doing the arrangements myself.

A few ideas to make your flowers more eco-friendly: Consider an organic flower supplier like Organic Bouquet, although be prepared to gasp at the price differential. A few other ways to get flowers include asking your friends what they will have growing around the time of your wedding. Collect greenery from friendly neighbors — say, magnolia leaves from the groom’s front yard. Or (cost-sucking) hydrangeas from a very friendly neighbor. Also, just make sure you get the most out of your flowers, send centerpieces home with guests after the event, give leftover flowers to helpers, and support local businesses or hospitals. At the end of the day, I am convinced that flowers provide real, visceral happiness to people. So enjoy the wedding flowers and don’t feel bad about it. To do that, well, that would be wrong.

A Bridesmaid DIY

A nontraditional dress from J. Crew that can be worn again gave one recent bride the need for a belt on her four bridesmaid’s waists. I was tasked with creating this unifying piece. Wonderfully specific about what she wants in the wedding, she told me she wanted navy belts with little “bowtie” in the middle back to make the dresses more serious. I took fusable hem tape and doubled the thickness of a beautiful grosgrain navy ribbon with an iron in seconds. Taking a 12 inch length and sewing it into a circle, I aligned the seam in the middle back and wrapped another piece of ribbon in place around the middle and stitch it together, attaching it to the waist band with sewing on one side and snaps on the other. Although I will tack the belts in place, they will be completely usable for (hopefully) something else — as will the dress itself.

Bridesmaid Dresses

Everyone has been at a wedding where someone (whoever that someone is who picked the bridesmaid dress) will tell you that they picked the bridesmaid dress because you can wear it again. I suppressed an indecent laugh at the last wedding I was at because I had just been told I could wear — yet again — a dress I already owned three times over, in the exact same color. A bride actually committing to a dress that can be worn again, even if it isn’t organic, could be the best thing for the environment and recycling.

I have recently discovered the TwoBirds dress, which is one bridesmaid dress that can be worn 15 ways. And my money is on it actually being worn again. Another idea is to think outside the box about what the dresses should look like. Break free from the stranglehold of David’s Bridal!

The Card Box

The card box, a very important craft project to protect cash gifts. (Kara Cook/EthicalStyle.com)

You have to have somewhere to secure all those cards (and the cash inside) that you are going to receive for your wedding. There are some beautiful card boxes out there, made with love and affection (check out these on Etsy.com). With all the ribbon and tulle that you are most likely going to have left over. Instead of buying a card box, considering using left over ribbon and wrapping paper to decorate your own. Have ribbon from your bridal shower or various other lead-up events, incorporate it into the card box. Gift packaging from the parties may also provide you with some perfect boxes to use as well. Use leftover fabric or purchase some acid free paper to cover the boxes. Oh, and I advise a lot of hot glue.

In conclusion, I adore my friends and helping them has been my pleasure (if any of then are reading this), but it’s a lot of work. My advice to any prospective brides is don’t be the DIY doyenne for your own wedding. There are savings to be had and that extra level of creativity and personalization is at your finger tips, but print off these ideas and give them to a dear friend you trust. Then walk away!

• For shiny hair, pour one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar into two cups of cold water. After shampooing, rinse your hair with the vinegar mixture to detoxify your tresses. Got some extra time? You can also steep fresh herbs in your vinegar for up to two weeks before straining the vinegar and adding the infusion to the water.
• To soothe a sunburn, apply straight honey to affected areas and let it sit for 10 minutes before rinsing with warm water. The honey may drip, so keep a towel handy while you hydrate.
• For all-over body softening, add a cup of powdered milk to warm running bathwater. Soak for 20 minutes for a Cleopatra-style treat.
• To purify your pores, make an tisane with near-boiling water and 2-3 peppermint or chamomile tea bags in a large basin. Lean over the bowl, at least 10 inches above the water, and drape a towel over your heat to trap the steam and steep your skin free of toxins.
• To tame cuticles and soften hands, stir a teaspoon of lemon juice into a half cup of plain yogurt. Work the mixture into your hands, then cover them up in plastic wrap and cover with a warm towel. (You may need a friend’s help for that part.) The lactic and citric acids will team up to slough off dead skin.
• For smooth feet, combine equal parts white granulated sugar and avocado oil (olive oil works well too). For added refreshment, you can also add aloe vera and peppermint essential oil and work the scrub up your legs.

All you’ll need is to scrounge up some vintage baubles from the thrift store or your grandmother’s dresser, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and some chain and jewelry wire to hold everything in place. (A mannequin to get the layers to sit right as you work wouldn’t hurt either.)

When collecting your necklaces, visualize your final product. Do you want something blingy? Seek out rhinestones. Ethnic? Then you want necklaces set with turquoise and other rough-hewn or semi-precious stones. Mixing metals? Look for bronze and rose gold chains in addition to the standard silver and gold. You can also use the same technique to create a matching bracelet, as modeled to the left.

For the full photo tutorial, click here.

Break out the Brylcream and feast your eyes on the following:

• How does vintage inform our modern-day style? More than you might think when you go through photos from the ’50s, ’60s, ’70s, and beyond.
• Animal products drum up a lot of controversy, but it’s important to remember that these items are built to last. Check out our gallery of high-fashion leather, fur, exotic skins, and other treasures that are likely older than you are.
• Our DIY Doyenne, the ever-fashionable Kara Cook, guides you through her latest upcycling project: deconstructing a vintage skirt.
• Ever wonder how clothing sizes have changed over the decades, and how we’ve ended up with the “vanity sizing” phenomenon? Get a history lesson (and some hope for the future) here.
• Finally, because we know you can’t get enough of vintage fashion, check out these stories from our archives.