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Origins

M.J. Prest | January 2009

It can be hard to pinpoint the beginning of a major event. When the tide begins to turn on an issue, it is rarely obvious. Hindsight is usually what reveals a movement’s origins.

In ethical fashion specifically, origins play a key role. Organic cotton? Fair trade? Fur? These are all issues that center on origins. People are becoming interested in where their clothes originate, and what goes into production. 

100-mile-suit

The 100-Mile Suit was created using fibers, leather, and manufacturing processes within a 100-mile radius of New York City. (Courtesy of 100-milesuit.blogspot.com)

The 100-Mile Suit was a news-making project in 2007 documenting the attempt to make a suit that used only fabrics, leather, yarn, thread, and buttons manufactured within 100 miles of New York City. The project relied on 21 regional crafters who worked with materials that had been processed locally — that includes the chemicals for tanning the leather and the dyes for all of the fabric. These crafty folks crocheted underwear, created shoes from the hides of locally raised deer, and spun their own cloth.

Somehow, it all came together, although the outcome was more homespun than high fashion. Still — the point was made. The average outfit requires the efforts of factories in myriad countries, all working in tandem. No matter what you’re wearing, it probably made pit stops all around the world before landing in your closet.

(Also, a heads up: Kelly Cobb of the Garment/Research studio — and the brains behind the 100-Mile Suit — reports to E.S. that she’s planning a new project this year to make a linen suit out of an acre of flax. See more details here.)

In this second issue of January, we explore the exact moments when an idea begins to form. From when the ideas of a sustainable eco-philosophy in fashion started to bud in Europe to the transfer of trends and concepts from the runways to your grandmother’s sewing room, style is one big exchange of knowledge.

Our newest contributing writer Allie Bashuk profiles Nourish, a stylish eco-boutique in the college town of Athens, Ga. Welcome Allie to E.S. by browsing her slideshow!

Runway trends have inspired DIYers in a big way — we found the simplest projects with the biggest impact, and none of them require special equipment or even sewing machines.

Trevor has a special report on Origin Assured, a new initiative by the fur industry to show consumers exactly where their mink stoles and chinchilla wraps come from.

Finally, we had a chance to talk with Summer Rayne Oakes, aka The Eco-Model. She is an unbeatable combination of brilliant and beautiful, and by year’s end we’d be surprised if she isn’t a household name. Two of her brainchildren are being born this year: a new book and a smashing shoe collection at Payless.

Enjoy the issue, and we’ll see you back here in February!


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