Lightbulb Moments
In October 2006, a Women’s Wear Daily headline declared that ethical fashion had gone mainstream. “Forget hippy,” said the article; morally conscious clothing had become so popular that retailers could hardly keep up with the demand. Designers from Canada, Peru, Denmark, France, and Chile weighed in on the rise of ethical consumerism. At long last, they said, people want to know where their clothes come from.
But there was one glaring omission among the international array of experts: Where were the Americans?
Academically, culturally, artistically-nearly all of the major forces driving “the movement” have come from abroad. Ethical fashion stories have been far more ubiquitous in the U.K. Guardian, Times, and Independent compared to major U.S. newspapers. Professor Kate Fletcher and other sustainable fashion scholars have brought a new level of depth and awareness to fashion-related issues. And the rising popularity of initiatives like the U.K. Ethical Fashion Forum and the Ethical Fashion Show have created new opportunities for designers in addition to the cooperation of major European fashion platforms like London Fashion Week.
Over the past two years or so, however, things have been looking up on the other side of the pond. Nearly a decade after the first wave of “green” fashion in the 1990s, ethical fashion has finally been making a comeback in the U.S.
There is a lot to be said about the stylistic “coming of age” of the State-side movement, not to mention the unprecedented (though fad-like) popularity of green shopping. But the evolution of ethical fashion causes beyond eco-textiles or solar-powered purses and towards education, human rights issues, and long-term sustainability suggests that something more advanced is at work.
Sustainable fashion advocates are finally finding themselves an audience, not only to buy but also to listen. And the cooperation of mainstream fashion designers and media has been — and will continue to be — the catalyst for further change.
Click for slideshow: A snapshot of the origins of today’s mainstream American ethical fashion movement.
- Ethical pioneer Kenneth Cole’s HIV awareness ad
- Since 2006, the CFDA under Diane von Furstenberg has made significant progress in uniting the industry’s anti-counterfeiting front and developing charity collaborations
- The CFDA launched its Health Initiative in January 2007
- EDUN designer and eco-fashion icon Rogan Gregory won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion award in 2007 (image via Style Will Save Us)
- The nomination of John Patrick Organic as a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Finalist was major news for eco-fashion designers and advocates (image: Flickr via Inhabitat)
- Earth Pledge’s Future Fashion: The U.S. gets its own ethical fashion show
- And the popularity of FutureFashion among model/fashionistas brings the cause mainstream: NYT Pulse
- Celebrities help drive the demand: Katie Holmes in James Jeans, now available at Nordstrom (image via JamesJeans.com)
- Actress Thandie Newton talks up the ethical benefits of vintage shopping in USA Today
- Public and media attention to the future of fashion brings more designers on board: Maison Martin Margiela in a NYT Magazine spread on ethical fashion

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