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At Macy’s Passport gala in Santa Monica, Calif., a crowd of stylish stars and fashion insiders banded together to raise $1.45-million for HIV/AIDS research. In attendance were high-profile sartorialists Jennifer Lopez, Brooke Shields, and P. Diddy.

The fashionable fundraiser — which was filmed and will air on NBC in October — featured a fashion show and artwork by Keith Haring, the pop artist who died of AIDS in 1990.

Guest speaker Liz Taylor addressed the audience from a wheelchair, and auction emcee Sharon Stone encouraged the star-studded crowd to give big despite the nation’s economic woes:

“I do understand that we are facing the biggest economic crisis since the Depression. I know that to be here tonight, for all of you, is a sacrifice and a gift. I will ask you to open your hearts and your wallets.”

The annual event has raised more than $30-million since the first gala was held in 1982.

Rapper Jay-Z and Iconix, the company that bought the rapper’s Rocawear fashion line for $204-million in 2007, have been sued by a smaller designer for stealing a logo.

I Will Not Lose LLC founder Reggie Tucker says Jay-Z’s “I Will Not Lose” collection for Rocawear last year used his trademarked phrase. Jay-Z’s claim to the phrase comes from a lyric from his 2000 album, The Dynasty: Roc La Familia. Mr. Tucker says his company is experiencing “reverse confusion,” with consumers believing his garments are knockoffs of Jay-Z’s line.

The lawsuit is complicated by the fact that Jay-Z promised to donate proceeds from the “I Will Not Lose” collection to the I Will Not Lose Foundation.

I Will Not Lose LLC is seeking an injunction against Iconix that would require the company to stop using the logo, as well as unspecified damages.

This isn’t an ethical fashion issue per se, but we thought it was pretty hilarious.

Channeling Derelicte from Zoolander, British comedian Sacha Baron Cohen — best known as Borat and Ali G — tromped down the catwalk in crazy get-up during Spanish fashion designer Agatha Ruiz De La Prada’s show at Milan Fashion Week.

He appeared as part of the filming of his new movie, Bruno: Delicious Journeys Through America for the Purpose of Making Heterosexual Male, where he plays a fashion-obsessed German news correspondent.

The stunt flustered the Italian security guards, who rushed him off the stage.

 Agatha Ruiz De La Prada was said to be a little ticked at the commotion, but hey — you can’t buy this kind of publicity!

Neiman Marcus created Cusp in 2006 to appeal to their clientele’s trendy younger siblings. The store has locations in a few major U.S. cities — all chicly designed like fabulously renovated warehouses — and launched a website earlier this year.

We got an email from them the other day touting Matt & Nat’s eco-friendly bag line. The collection this fall is way more stylish than you’d expect from designers working in pleather and fleece.

The slim Vetro Bugatti satchel would be a great carry-on bag that will even fit your laptop. And the Arjun wallet looks way more luxe in that dark grey faux leather than its $95 price tag would suggest.

Matt & Nat Large Jorja Hobo, $285 at Cusp.com.

C&C California makes some totally classic and well-fitting tees, so whenever they’re on sale we make a point to stock up.

The company’s website has put its summer stock on clearance this week and included in the discounted mix is the series of eco-messaged organic hoodies and lounge pants.

This one exhorts moviegoers to share their popcorn to cut down on waste from packaging. Another one encourages just saying no to receipts at the ATM to cut back on paper use.

They’re more understated than the somewhat crass “FLUSH LESS” tank top, and we think we’d actually wear them out of the house.

Plus, entering the code EXTRA25 at checkout will get you an additional 25 percent off clearance merchandise. Orders over $150 also get you free shipping.

“Pull the Plug” Organic Long-Sleeve Crew Tee, $19 at CandCCalifornia.com.

Yes to Carrots, the quirky organic beauty company that is oddly enthusiastic about the vibrant root vegetable, has created the Yes to Carrots Seed Fund, a corporate giving program that will sow its philanthropy worldwide. The company plans to expand the fund to $2-million over the next four years.

Its giving will concentrate on establishing organic gardens and promoting access to nutrition education for people in disadvantaged neighborhoods. One of its newest efforts will set up an apprenticeship program in Kibbutz Lotan, in southern Israel. Through the program, 16 interns will learn about designing, building, and supporting sustainable communities.

The $50-million company seems to be doing well. It has recently expanded its line to include Yes to Tomatoes and Yes to Cucumbers products. The brand is sold in Ulta, Duane Reade, and Walgreens throughout the United States.

At first we were surprised to see such a scathing review of the Roberto Cavalli collection on the front page of WWD today…

If Cavalli thought making otherwise covered-up Bo-Peep stuff completely see-through was a clever conduit for sexy/sweet or opulent — well, think again. Likewise for the stiff, sculpted Marie Antoinette styles, which were chopped off thigh-high and bustled like a bunny tail — perfect for a Versailles theme party at the Playboy Mansion.

Yikes. Add to that The Independent’s headline for yesterday’s FW coverage: “Feast of flesh as Cavalli economizes on fabric.”

And they weren’t kidding, either.

As we learned while researching an article for the second issue of ES, the Conundrum of See-Through is a classic ethical fashion issue. (Stay tuned.)

Meanwhile, on a more positive note, Marni received praise for its excellence as a personal style enabler. WWD writes:

Finally a little pizzazz, Italian style…

Similar cuts got fancier for night with shimmery paillettes and painterly bunched chiffon. Topped off with the exaggerated accessories — multicolored platform heels and arts-and-crafts earrings and collars that seemed to be resin melted into tulips — the looks were over the top, but they charmed. And all those layers are meant to be dissected and interpreted for the individual, a girl who wants to stand out.

(Right: Marni. Below: Roberto Cavalli. All photos from WWD.com)

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Chrys Hutchings definitely took the creative path to becoming an eco-friendly designer.

During a yearlong stay in New Zealand, she discovered that Australian brushtail possums, or Paihamu, outnumber New Zealanders 12 to 1. The animal was an import from Australia in 1837, introduced to create a fur trade on the island nation. But in the time since, the possums have become pests, destroying native species and spreading disease.

According to the country’s Landcare Research organization, today the possums “are considered the major animal pest in New Zealand. In farming areas they spread bovine tuberculosis to beef and dairy cattle and to farmed deer, damage crops and orchards, kill poplars and willows planted to control hill-country erosion and stabilise riverbanks, and eat pasture. In exotic forest plantations they kill young trees and stunt the growth of older trees by ringbarking them or breaking the uppermost branches.”

Which is why Ms. Hutchings, who now lives in Portland, Ore., began making luxurious pillows and blankets out of the pelts of these nuisance animals. Using possum fur is more eco-friendly than going faux, she says.

Synthetic fur is “throw-away fashion,” Hutchings says. Possum fur is natural and lasts. She has visited her suppliers and tanners, and says they’re using humane and environmentally conservative processing methods.

She’s started out with home goods — you can pick up a possum pillow for as little as $100, or go for the king-sized shorn throw at $2,800. 

Large Throw, $1,900 at Eco-LuxuryFur.com.

The Little Black Dress tour has arrived in Los Angeles for a few weeks, raising money for charity through the iconic frock you can wear anywhere and never be underdressed.

We’d never heard of this fundraiser, but it’s such a good idea:

little black dress raises valuable funds for charity through its self-titled celebration “little black dress” where fashion icons and buzz-worthy new designers are asked to submit their version of this universal wardrobe essential. Every year since its inception in 2002, the glamorous gala has attracted celebrities, fashionistas, and other style icons.

LBD Tour: 2008-09 

In a new twist on the original one night event little black dress will expand to a four-week pop-up boutique to tour three cities. A closely edited mix of luxury clothing, streetwear, accessories, and home decor will be sold to benefit the selected charities.

The charities to benefit this month are the the Elijah Kelley Foundation Fund, the Saban Free Clinic, Junior League of Los Angeles, and Dress for Success.

The tour will be in Chicago next, from March 24 to May 2, before moving on to NYC from May 19 to June 27. It also plans a stop in Bangkok next year.

Who needs anti-knockoff legislation?

Sassy Bill Blass ad, 1964. The caption reads:

They can’t knock off Bill Blass.

Seventh Avenue gets away with murder. Somebody creates a hot design and bang, before he even gets it in the stores they knock it off. That’s why Bill Blass got himself some protection.

Gun-toting models? We wish!

The protection of exclusive fabrics nobody else can have. Of subtle nuances of cut, of shaping and of draping. Of thousands of details so tiny nobody but Blass even knows they’re there. Next time you want something knockout that won’t be knocked off, get yourself some protection. Invest in Bill Blass.

More notes on fashion history here (and more on the way!). Full-page scan after the jump.

Source: Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner, advertisement in Vogue, February 1, 1964, p 16.

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