A lot of what we hear about ethical fashion has to do with where our clothes come from — eco-friendly materials, labor conditions, carbon emissions in transport, waste in production. But what about the other end of the story?
According to a 2002 New York Times article, approximately 2.5 billion pounds of used clothing are donated to charity in America each year.
Obviously, thrift shops and shelters can only take so much; what happens to the rest?
George Packer, author of the NYT article, explains:
This is where the trail grows tricky, for what had been charitable suddenly crosses a line that tax law and moral convention think inviolable — it turns commercial, and no one likes to talk very much about what happens next. A whiff of secrecy and even shame still clings to the used-clothing trade… The used-clothing firms are mostly family-owned, and the general feeling seems to be that the less the public knows, the better.
Long story short, much of the clothing we give away makes its way to people in impoverished countries. But there are at least two major criticisms of this practice: (1) that people are making money off of what most people consider charity, and (2) that used clothing floods the market, making it difficult for local seamstresses to sell their garments. Packer came down in favor of used clothing (called “pepe” overseas), concluding that “Africans want it,” and “it gives them dignity and choice.”
Writer Joanne McNeil addresses these issues in Reason magazine this month:
[A] little industry is better than none. Those rags for sale on the streets of Port-au-Prince might pave the way for more trade and opportunity.
What do you think?
Editors’ note: The McNeil article is based on a new documentary on the used clothing trade in Haiti called Secondhand (Pepe). A friend just loaned us a copy (available for purchase at Etsy), so stay tuned for more on this!
(Photo from McNeil’s blog, TomorrowMuseum.com)